My Top 10 Favorite Protective Styles (with added hair)

This post will be focusing on braided and twisted protective styles with added hair or yarn. You can call me Brandy circa 1997. 

                                                    

Yes, I’m the girl always in braids or twists. All jokes aside, I absolutely adore braids; I love the way they look and feel. No other styles compliment me the way braids do. On top of that, I truly see braided styles as a way of expressing and celebrating my cultural heritage. Much to my delight, over the past few years (thanks to black hipsters on tumblr), braids have made a comeback in a big way. So I’ll be reviewing my top 10 favorite braided/twisted protective styles over the years and hopefully, in the process, encourage you to experiment and have fun trying out these different styles with your hair.

10. Senegalese Twists

These braids/twists are absolutely beautiful and one of the most aesthetically pleasing styles when done well in my honest opinion. Unfortunately they do not always last as long as I would like them to. Also, depending on your hair length, slippage ca be an issue.

The Process

These twists are often started off with a short braid to keep them secure and then twisted to the end. They can also be started with a twist. The success of this will depend on the thickness of your twist and the length of your hair. There is a technical trick to keeping Senegalese twists tight and ensuring they don’t unravel. Each strand of the extension hair must be twirled between the thumb and index finger in the same direction (the direction the hair is being twisted) as the hair is being twisted.

Durability

The durability of these twists is really dependent on how well your braider has secured and twisted the hair. The type of hair used is also key for long lasting beautiful twists.

Take Down

These are very straightforward to take down. Simply unravel.

Hair Recommendations

Xpression Kanekalon Hair- best by FAR

RastAfri Freedm Silky Braid

9. Small Single Braids (Not Micros)

This is the one style I used to wear religiously for a number of years. I would always braid with human bulk hair, but it started to become an expensive habit and my academic ambitions meant that I couldn’t afford the three packs of 24” human hair I desired as a starving student. This led me to experiment with different types of hair and I got the hang of curling and styling synthetic strands to my liking. This is a style I preferred when my hair was shorter. Because the shorter your hair is, the more hair is left out of the braid. Let me explain…

The Process

These braids are done taking small sections of hair and adding a small amount of extension hair into the braid, braiding just past the natural hair and making an discreet but firm knot. This leaves the end of the extensions loose to be style however one sees fit. This is my preferred way to wear this style, rather than braiding all the way to the end. Much like micro braids, it lends to the illusion that your hair is not actually braided (depending on your hair length of course).

Durability

I never had any problem keeping these braids for up to 10 weeks at a time. Of course it’s best to redo edges or anything unsightly as time goes on. However I preferred to use a dry shampoo to clean them rather than drench them with water and shampoo. This also helped me achieve style longevity. I would spray every other day with a braid spray to ensure that my hair was kept moisturized.

Take Down

Fairly easy: Snip at the knot (careful not to cut your own hair), drench hair with a mix of water and a slippery conditioner and carefully unravel each braid. I find that using a metal rat tail comb helps with this (metal because there are no seams so it’s less likely to rip or damage your hair).

Hair Recommendations

Sensationnel Yaki Straight Human hair Bulk

Zury Ultra Yaky Perm Human Hair Bulk

Bio Wet and Wavy Synthetic hair Bulk

RastAfri Freed’m Silky Braid (synthetic)

RastAfri Yaky Braid (synthetic)

8. Yarn braids

             

I really enjoy wearing yarn braids. They really do look like locs and stay neat for a long time. Even when you have a lot of new growth you can get away with it  (especially if your hair is close to the color of the yarn- see picture to the right) because the braid looks so natural. This is one of the cheapest braided styles. You only need 1-3 rolls of yarn depending on the length of the braids, and at $2-$3 a pop you have a wallet friendly beautiful hairstyle. Perfect for students! However, all this convenience comes at a cost lol.

The Process

You have to prep the yarn in advance in order to have a less irritating braiding process. Depending on the length you want and the measuring tools you have at hand (chair, desk, tape, hands etc) this can take over an hour. I typically use 3 strands of yarn per braid. I also find it necessary to prime with S-Curl moisturizing spray before putting it in my hair. I find that this keeps my hair extra moisturized and reduces any friction with the yarn. Once the yarn is prepped the rest is a breeze. Just braid as you normally would. I use my own triple seal method to seal these braids. This involves (1)tying a knot at the end of each braid, snipping off any excess yarn, (2)burning the ends over a flame briefly and then (3)dipping the hair in very hot water. I typically tie the knot at the end after every braid, but wait until I’ve finished my entire head to go through the next steps. Not only does this seal the hair well, it also helps the yarn to constrict and lengthen a little, helping the braids to be less bulky and look less like braids and more like locs.

Durability

These look more and more natural the longer you leave them in. They are super durable and can be washed every other week without getting fuzzy (of course this depends on length and thickness- see Thick Long Yarn Braids section).

Take Down

Ok. Taking down yarn braids is a female dog. I don’t know how else to say it. It’s the one thing that makes me hesitate to put them in. Maybe my distain for this process is because it normally take me less than 45 minutes to take down regular braids but it can take up to 3 hours to take down yarn braids (the shorter your natural hair is the less time this will take). The good outweighs the bad when it comes to getting yarn braids though…just about!

Hair Recommendation

Red Heart Super Saver Yarn

7. Long  thick yarn braids

I receive so many complements when I wear these braids. People always “ooo” and “ahhh”, telling me my hair is beautiful and asking me how long I’ve be growing my locs. It’s so much fun lol.  I always tell anyone who asks that I have yarn braids and the looks on their faces are priceless.

The Process

Most of the info in the previous post applies to these braids also. However I use 5- 6 strands of yarn per braid for a thicker look.

Durability

See Yarn Braids section.

I must include a few warnings: If you live in a hot or humid climate having long thick yarn braids with only make you feel hotter and sticker, unless you wear a bun every day. It is essentially like wearing a sweater on your head. Nobody wants to deal with that in 100+ degree weather. You know what else no one wants to deal with? Washing a sweater…on their head. I am telling you this because I’ve have experienced this all first hand. Wet yarn braids are HEAVY. Especially when you have almost 3 rolls of yarn in your hair. This weight can actually cause some damage by pulling at the scalp if you’re not careful. These braids are best maintained with a dry shampoo.

Take down/ Hair Recommendation

See Yarn Braids section.

6. Kinky twists

 

I love to wear these twists quite short, at chin or shoulder length. Although I have installed waist length kinky twists for some of my clients and they look so pretty. However, marley hair can tend to do a number on my wrists if I’m twisting for a long period of time, which is why I prefer them shorter.

The Process

This is a fairly quick style to do. It normally takes me between 3-4 hours to complete shoulder length kinky twists. The can be started with a braid or with the invisible root method.

Durability

I can keep these twists in for two months, which is normally my maximum time limit for braided styles. They can be washed every two weeks or even every week, if they get fuzzy they can be easily redone. I spray the twists daily with a braid spray and oil my scalp after every wash with a light oil like jojoba, coconut or avocado oil. Perhaps my favorite thing about these twists is the way I am able to leave out my edges and twist them without the added Marley hair, without it looking odd. Because my hair is the same texture as the Marley hair it looks and natural and I can give my edges a rest for the duration of the style.

Take Down

The take down is very quick and easy- simply unravel

Hair recommendation

Janet Marley hair

RastAfri Malibu Kinky hair (for longer lengths)

Black and Gold Kinky hair

5.Marley crochet braids

I love love LOVE this style. It’s so quick and easy and looks so natural people always mistake this for my own natural hair.

The Process

Now these aren’t actually braids in the traditional sense. This style involves cornrowing your natural hair back and using a latch hook to crochet extension hair into the cornrow braid- there is no need to knot the added hair at the root with Marley hair. This looks incredibly natural and you can adjust the fullness by adding or removing the individual pieces to the cornrow. It also allows you to leave out the perimeter of your hairline so you can style it in a ponytail and a variety of natural looking styles. Unlike other crochet braid styles, this Marley install can take a little as an hour and a half to complete.

Durability

I find that this specific style doesn’t really last long. This is because of the nature of synthetic Marley hair; when left loose it can easily tangle and become matted unless you are meticulous in your upkeep of the style. It’s a style I like to wear in between installs of individual braids. I would advise against trying to comb out the Marley hair once it has been installed. If you want to go for that blown out look then comb out the hair BEFORE installing.

Take Down

If you don’t leave them in for too long the take down is as easy as gently pulling out the pieces of Marley hair. Alternatively just cut the hair at the base, just above the cornrow and then just undo the cornrow braid. As you do this, the crocheted hair should come out of the braid.

Hair Recommendation

RastAFri Malibu Kinky Braid- most natural looking for blending. Other brands of marley hair are fine if you are not leaving any hair out.

4.Yarn wraps

Another great style, these wraps take on the appearance of perfectly coiffed neat locs. They are gorgeous and ideal if you want the look of locs or loc extensions.

The Process

Yarn wraps involve partially braiding your hair with yarn and the wrapping said braid with additional yarn to your desired length. This process is awfully time consuming and can take up to 15 hours to complete but the results are well worth it. It is important to make sure your natural hair is well moisturized and the yarn you do the first braid with (before wrapping) is primed with a moisturizing spray like S-curl. This will ensure you hair does not dry out (since it will be completely wrapped away for the duration of the style).

Durability

This style can go the distance and can last a little beyond 8 weeks. They can also be kept in as starter locks.  These are best maintained with a dry shampoo and lightly oiling the scalp a couple of times a week.

Take down

Simply cut the wrap a safe distance away from where you think your natural hair ends inside. Then unravel the yarn wrap and undo the yarn braid underneath. It is definitely not as annoying as taking down yarn braids because you typically don’t braid the full length of your natural hair with yarn when doing yarn wraps.

Hair Recommendation

Red Heart Super Saver Yarn

3.Havana twists

I love this style in the summer time. It’s lightweight, chic and bohemian looking and easy to install and maintain. Bonus!

The Process

To get the smoothest result, Marley hair needs to be carefully pulled apart, which can become quite tedious if you’re impatient (like me). Pulling apart 3 – 5 pieces of marley hair can be time consuming and this really depends of the brand of Marley hair you use. Some brands separate easily leading to a nice smooth, thick and juicy looking twist. I prefer to start Havana twists using the invisible root method; it looks so much more natural this way. Once you have finished to twist you can add perm rods to the tips and dip the hair in hot water for neater looking ends.

Durability

Because I use the invisible root method I tend to wash these twists a little less and alternate between doing a normal wash and using a dry shampoo. I do this to prevent slippage and fuzziness. The hair can be sprayed with braid spray every other day. Havana twists can stay neat for up to 5 weeks and even longer if you want to stretch the style by simply redoing the hairline.

Take Down

Extremely quick and easy. No fuss!

Hair Recommendation

Motown Tress Marley Hair

Freetress Equal Marley Hair

Black & Gold Marley Hair

2.Yarn Havana twists

Yarn Havana twists have all the benefits of regular Havana twists with the added bonus of a smoother finish and more money in your wallet. Instead of paying $5-$10 a pack and needing up to 12 packs of Marley hair you can simply purchase 3 rolls of yarn at $2- $3 a roll.

The Process

Much like with yarn braids, the yarn must be measured and cut for this style but after this is complete it’s smooth sailing. Adjust the thickness of the twist by adjust the number of pieces of yarn used for each twist. I typically using beteen 8-10 pieces of yarn per twist. I use the invisible root method and seal the ends by tying a couple of knots, snipping off the excessive yarn and burning the ends. I DO NOT DIP YARN TWISTS. Dipping these twists with stretch out the yarn and leave you with a long floppy stretched out twist. You do not want this.

Durability

See Havana Twists.

Take Down

See Havana Twists.

Hair Recommendation

Red Heart Super Saver Yarn

1. Poetic Justice/ Patra braids

Some women feel like Princesses with long flowing layered locks, some women feel like Queens with their twa (teeny weeny afro) or huge picked out fro. I feel like royalty when I wear my hair in these braids. This is by far my favorite style to wear. I think it complements me the most out of every style mentioned in my top ten, so naturally it takes the number one spot!

The Process

I use a technique that can be described as “pulling”. When preparing the extension hair for the braid I lightly pull the ends, giving the hair a tapered look. So the braid tapers off at the end instead of ending bluntly and needing to be burned. Taking large sections of my hair I firmly braid in the synthetic hair. The braids stay neat until I’m ready to take them down. I seal the braids by dipping the tapered ends in hot water.

Durability

Great durability! They can last up to 8 weeks and still look very neat.  I like to redo my hairline every few weeks to extend the style and keep everything looking fresh. I spray the braids every other day with braid spray and Infusium and wash them once a week.

Take Down.

This is a simple process. Just cut below where your natural hair ends in the braid and unravel. Wetting the braids with water and condition can help with this and aid in detangling and loosening any build up on you natural hair.

Hair Recommendation

RastAfri Twist N Dread

RastAfri Freed'm Silky Braid

Xpression Kanekalon Hair

Braid Spray Recommendations

Gueye Antiseptic Braid Spray

Talia Wajid Protective Mist Bodifier

Sulfer 8 Braid Spray

African Royal BRX Braid Spray

S Curl Moisturizing Spray

Thank you so much for reading this long post. Please comment with and questions or suggestions. I’d love to know what your favorite protective styles are!